Friday, March 14, 2008

Day 2: Sacred cows and immigrant communities

For two students in the journalism school group, the day began with a visit to the farmyard at Mt. Saint Joseph’s monastery at 5 a.m. The farmyard is off limits to visitors, but after much persistence, the monks made an exception.

The early-risers trudged with camera, tripod and radio equipment through cow dung and hay to capture the first hours of a newly born calf. The cows mooed in surprise at the strangers.

Brother Malachy didn’t notice the overwhelming odor of the farm animals as he guided the visitors through the pitch dark and gently persisting rain. It was an unexpected sight to see the monk out of his habit and dressed in farm clothes tending to the cows. The dairy products from 250 cows are the monastery’s primary source of income.

After the cow adventure, Brother Malachy took the exception a giant step further. He showed his guests the "enclosure," a sacred area for the 25 monks at the monastery.

There is a big apple orchard and many other places where the monks read and pray, day after day and year after year. There is no sound, except for the birds.

In the pre-dawn light, he pointed to the bakery where a light was burning. A closer look revealed an old cottage swirling in smoke. "That’s Brother Oliver burning the peat bog," he said. The peat is used as fuel in the bakery.

It was a sight and smell from long ago.

The day for the rest of the group began at 9 a.m. with a breakfast of cereal, jam and bread. An hour later, we filed into a bus and our tour guide, John, drove through Roscrea to Shannon for a visit to a Nigerian Pentecostal church.

John played traditional Irish music from a CD and outside the green fields, sheep, horses, cows and tiny houses whizzed past. The pipes, fiddle and tin whistle (an instrument) lulled some into slumber while others pressed their noses against the rain sprayed window pane of the bus, their cameras at work.

When we arrived at the Nigerian Pentecostal church, we were met by Pastor Osim, and his wife Joy.
Paster Okey A. Osim

The Pentecostal movement started in the 1700s. In Nigeria, the Pentecostal church was founded in 1952 and planted its roots in Ireland in 1998. Today, there are 45 Pentecostal parishes all over Ireland.

The pastor, a small earnest looking man, belongs to the order called Redeemed Christian of God, which has 10 parishes.

Pentecostals are defined by their belief in the power of the Holy Spirit. "The Holy spirit is where the power comes from," said Pastor Osim. Pentecostals pray only through Jesus Christ and not through the Virgin Mary. Unlike Catholicism, where a priest interprets the bible, in Pentecostalism, each individual interprets the Bible.

After a Pentecostalism 101, the religion seekers questioned Pastor Osim and Joy about the Nigerian’s flight to Ireland and their lives in a new land.

The couple explained:

Many Nigerians fled to escape religious and political persecution from the Islamic government.
The migration was not about economic emancipation but about safety. They chose Ireland for two reasons: the English language and the Christianity. The Nigerians living in Ireland feel welcome in Ireland with one exception--jobs. They do not have equal job opportunities.

Professionals from Nigeria work as waiters and laborers because less qualified natives are given preference by employers. But Nigerians are confident that their children, who were born in Ireland, won’t face job discrimination due to their integration into the Irish milieu and the fading Nigerian "accent."

Unlike the Catholic monks from the day before, the Pentecostalism pastor said that Pentacostal congregations are increasing membership all over Ireland.

After a peek at the world of the Nigerian Pentecostalism, the journalists headed towards a Polish Catholic Church in Limerick.

On the way to lunch, we passed by Richard Harris’s house. (Harris played Dumbledore in the first three Harry Potter movies).Lunch was a quick stop across from a Norman castle (the skyscraper of its time, said John, our tour guide) from the 12th century.

It was pouring by the time the bus reached St. Michael’s Church. The streets around the church were filled with shops, international brands and pubs. Despite the rain the Irish were out having a good time on St Patrick’s Day weekend. It was the first glimpse we had of the economic prosperity that had come up in so many conversations.

The Poles are the largest immigrant population in Ireland. The official figures are 200,000 but Father Szymon Czuwaia said that the actual numbers are probably double the official figures.Polish priests have been dispatched to take care of their spiritual needs. There are 30 Polish priests in Ireland with 10 in Dublin.
Father Szymon Czuwaia

Czuwaia believes that the Polish community is happy in Ireland. "The Irish are very nice to us in general," he said. He dismisses allegations against the Irish of resenting the "Polish plumber." He said that the Polish immigrants have been treated better in Ireland than in any other country.

"We share a common history of persecution," he said matter-of-factly.

The group spent the rest of the hour exploring the Limerick market. Some spent a quiet hour of coffee and reflections, others bought phone cards and the enthusiasts stopped Irish on the street for interviews on camera.

Dinner was a delightful spread at the Dolan’s pub at Limerick. The waitress spoke English with a Polish accent, an exotic first for most of us.

On the ride home, John played his favorite CD, "A Woman’s Heart." He said that he thinks of brothers and nephews in Dublin when he is driving. In the dark calm of the bus, it is anybody’s guess what the students from the J-school are thinking. Sleep, maybe?

Candles in St. Michael's
By Betwa Sharma