Day 5: Pilgrims and Puja

Under a second morning of sunny skies we left Galway and travelled north to Donegal, a county in the northwest. Our bus criss-crossed the border of North and South Ireland, the language of the road signs the only indication of which territory we were in.

Following the footsteps of generations of pilgrims, we explored the grounds of Lough Derg, Ireland’s most ancient pilgrimage site. This famous destination is lush and majestic with its manicured landscape and stone buildings, all located on an island in the middle of an enormous lake. It draws more than 20,000 believers per year, mostly Catholic and interdenominational Christian.

(Photo: Rachel King)

The sky alternated between rain and sunshine as students walked the winding prayer paths, wandered through the great stone Basilica and snapped pictures of the penitential prayer beds. The waves of the surrounding lake rippled in circles around the island.

“I think even the dramatic weather had a good effect,” said Rachel Rosenthal. “It was very remote. There is nothing you can do except reflect there.”

Photo: Rachel King

Commonly known as St. Patrick’s Purgatory, where, legend has it, the country’s patron saint fasted and received visions of purgatory, this place has inspired centuries of pilgrims to flock to the island. They seek penance, divine intervention or simply an escape from worldly distractions of everyday life. Most come for the 3-day pilgrimage, a rigorous experience consisting of walking barefoot, fasting and staying awake for 24 hours. Lough Derg ground manager Deborah Maxwell explained that these physical sacrifices are spiritual disciplines that allow people to reach their spiritual core.

“Taking off shoes levels all people,” she said. “Fasting is almost like detox. Good things can happen to your body and mind.” Throughout a pilgrim’s waking 24-hours, they are constantly engaged in prayer.

Debra Katz was struck by the fact that “the pagans found this place holy. At some point it was considered too pagan that Rome had it shut down. To me, it was interesting to see the confluence of paganism and Christianity and where those two meet.”

Stained glass insided Basilica at Lough Derg (Photo: Sarah Morgan)

After leaving the island, we made our way to County Cavan, where our tour made its first step towards eastern religion. At Jampa Ling, a Buddhist center tucked behind woods with narrow gravel paths, crisp air and Tibetan Buddhists greeted us.

“Seeing people in these robes and speaking with thick Irish brogues kind of made me smile,” said Debra Katz.

Photo: Andrew Nusca

We shared a meal of fresh salad and steaming bowls of curry vegetable soup with monks and other believers, swapping stories of our faith journey through Ireland with their journey to Jampa Ling.

One monk, Lobsang Wangchuck – his ordained name – shared with two students how the sex abuse scandal that shook the Catholic Church and his life directed his path toward Buddhism. Raised in the Catholic Church, he faced abuse for nearly 5 years. He left the church at 17 and discovered Buddhism in his twenties. Two years ago, on his 60th birthday, Wangchuck became the first western monk ordained by the center’s lama, the Ven. Panchan Otrul Rimpoche.

After dinner everyone crowded into a small room for Puja, a practice of meditation and training of the mind. The lama, his followers and Columbia students sat cross-legged, eyes closed before a large red-painted shrine filled with images of deities, a large framed photograph of the Dali Lama, and Buddhist statues. Ani La, the center’s nun, led the meditation service in both English and Tibetan chants.

Photo: Pilar Conci

Photo: Andrew Nusca

Though it was new for many students, some earnestly embraced the experience. “I really did enjoy it, even though I had no idea what they were saying,” said Rachel Rosenthal. “I felt that the whole mind and body doing the same thing inspiring to me. Yay, Buddhism!”